Friday, September 24, 2010
S-A-F-E-T-Y
S-A-F-E-T-Y
You, your family, and friends will enjoy a happier, healthier pool and spa experience if you remember the FSPA rules of S-A-F-E-T-Y.
S is for more than just SUPERVISION - children must be watched closely
* There's no substitute for an ADULT watching a child
* Do not let anything or anyone distract you when a child is in or near a body of water, not even for a second
* Keep your eyes on the pool at all times
A is for ALERT - Pay attention, Play smart
* Toys: A favorite toy left near the water can be a very strong attraction for a child. Toys, tricycles and other playthings should be stored away from the pool or spa area.
* Store all chemicals, cleansers and accessories safely and securely in appropriate areas.
* Sunscreen: Choose It and Use It! The sun is strongest in the summer months. Be sure to apply sun protection regularly while enjoyed the pool. No sun, just clouds? Be alert - Continue to use sun protection.
* Remember to serve all food and beverages in non-breakable containers in the pool area.
* Get out of the pool at the first sign of thunderstorms.
F is for FREE - Be Substance-FREE
* Never use a pool or spa while, or after, consuming alcohol or any drugs. Consult a physician if taking any mediation on a regular basis prior to swimming or using a spa.
E is for EMERGENCY Procedures - Get training and education
* Learning CPR , cardiopulmonary resuscitation, is a skill that may save a life. The local YMCA, the Red Cross and many local hospitals offer classes.
* Keep a charged portable telephone by the pool -
Parents won't have to leave children unattended to answer the phone. And if you need to call Emergency Services, your phone is within seconds reach - your call could make a REAL difference!
* Rescue equipment - Is your pool safety ready?
Ropes and float lines placed across the pool alert swimmers to the separation of the deep and shallow ends of the pool. Rescue equipment such as life rings and shepherd's crooks can be used to pull someone in trouble to safety.
* Keep a list of emergency contact numbers pool side.
T is for TEACHING - Never too old or too young
* Swimming Lessons - Everyone should be taught swim. Children of all ages should be enrolled in swimming lessons or a program to familiarize them with the water. Check your local YMCA, Parks and Recreation departments or other local programs near your area.
* Diving - Learn safe diving. Know the depth of the water prior to diving. Never dive into shallow water. Never dive into an aboveground pool.
Y is for YOU
By thinking about SAFETY all the time, YOU are being a RESPONSIBLE pool owner and user! Thank You!
Monday, September 13, 2010
Pool finishes stay beautiful when salt water stays balanced.
New Balance
By Karen ErstadAugust 2010
| Pool finishes stay beautiful when salt water stays balanced. | ||
Much like the coats of paint covering their houses, homeowners want beautiful and durable finishes on their pools, but the staying power of a good pool finish is highly dependent on its environment. Getting 20 to 25 years out of a pool finish requires diligent monitoring of water balance, says Randy Dukes, technical sales representative for Aquavations, South Miami, Fla."Cementitious pool finishes are cosmetic coatings applied to the shotcrete shell, the structural part of a swimming pool, and they are generally applied ⅜ to ¾ of an inch thick," says Dukes.
"They are not structural, and they are not waterproofing agents. They are semi-permeable, cosmetic applications. So sound technical practices in water chemistry are absolutely imperative when it comes to maintaining a surface that comes in contact with water 365 days a year. Properly maintained water is the key to the service life of any cementitious finish — that water needs to stay balanced."
While maintaining balanced pool water is not always easy, pool professionals do have an ally to turn to: the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI). This index determines water balance based on readings of pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and water temperature. This tool is not new to the industry, but it may be underused.
When dealing with pools with salt chlorine generators, it's critical to use the LSI because it accounts for the difference in total dissolved solids in the water, says Bob Harper, general manager of Pristiva, a salt manufacturer owned by Compass Minerals, Overland Park, Kan.
Harper says a factor of 12.3 is used in calculating the LSI in salt water pools to adjust for the 3,000 to 3,500 ppm of salt which has been added, whereas a factor of 12.1 is used in traditionally chlorinated pools.
"Also understand that the higher ionic strength in a salt pool typically means higher calcium carbonate solubility," he says. "The pool's appetite for calcium is actually greater because water will balance itself, taking what it needs if you don't provide it, and you can run into problems like etching of fresh concrete, where it's almost like grooves or pitting in the finish of a pool because the water is taking the calcium out of the finish.
"Another particular problem is called efflorescense. This again has to do with ionic strength and equilibrium, and this is when salt comes in contact with cement surfaces or finishes and typically what happens is the surface is trying to be in equilibrium with the material that's laying on it, so the water will actually draw up calcium salts through the surface itself, which will form deposits. Those deposits typically show a discoloration — it's usually a whitish color. So it'll give a lightening effect to the look of the finish, and this can show up more readily on a pigmented plaster or aggregate finish. The real key to preventing efflorescense is to use a salt with a rapid dissolution rate and then brush the salt vigorously so it doesn't lay in any one particular spot on the surface for any given period of time."
If you do encounter balance issues with salt pools, you're more likely to experience problems like scale and others related to high-pH conditions, because pH tends to rise in salt pools due to the electrolytic process of producing chlorine. For every chlorine molecule produced by the generator, two sodium hydroxide molecules are produced. Chlorine lowers pH and sodium hydroxide raises it, but since twice as much sodium hydroxide is produced, pH goes up.
One way to deal with this slow drift upward in pH is to install an acid feeder, says Dukes. "These feed trace amounts of diluted acid to the pool during the operation of the equipment and the cell and help maintain the pH, so that the pool service guy doesn't have to be there two or three times a week or the homeowner doesn't have to go out and add a cup of acid every other day.
"Putting acid in the pool will drive the alkalinity down, so every couple of weeks, you need to add sodium bicarbonate to get the alkalinity back because low alkalinity will make the water corrosive."
At Start-Up And Beyond
Starting up a pool with a salt chlorine generator can present special challenges. The salt, of course, cannot be added until after the initial finish curing period of 28 days. Dukes recommends using dichlor to chlorinate during that time because it's a fairly pH-neutral product, and it's 57 percent cyanuric acid by weight. Then, when it comes time to add the salt, check to be sure there's a free chlorine level of 1.5 to 3 ppm in the water, says Dukes. If your reading is below this, the salt chlorine generator will work much better if you shock the pool to remove the combined chlorine."A lot of municipalities are on chloramines, which is ammonia and chlorine, and the salt generators are not capable of overcoming this combined chlorine," says Dukes. "So they need to develop some free chlorine rather than expecting the chlorine unit to overcome that combined or total chlorine. I think this really fools people. They get the pool up and running, they get the salt chlorine generator out there, they turn it on, they've got combined chlorine and they can't get any free chlorine out of the salt generator."
In salt pools, Harper recommends using a non-phosphorous-based sequestering agent. "Traditional pool chemicals tend to break down in the harsh conditions inside the salt chlorine generator cell. The most commonly used chemistry for sequestering agents are phosphorous-based, and while these have been used for decades in the pool industry, they have just proved to be ineffective in salt water pools because not only do they break down so they're rendered ineffective, but the byproducts of many these are orthophosphates, which can create a lot of problems in a salt water pool."
Another Alternative
To avoid the potential pitfalls of the high TDS levels in salt pools, Jon Temple, a veteran pool plasterer and owner of Tempool, in Jacksonville, Fla., likes to use ozone as the primary means of sanitization and a salt chlorine generator as secondary means. "This way we're able to put less salt in the pool, and turn the machine down lower to back up the ozone, so we're creating fewer total dissolved solids," says Temple. "I really got into that when I worked over in the Middle East because there's no chlorine there, so they really use a lot of ozone."If you do encounter a pool with excessive total dissolved solids, Temple says there are a couple of options. You can dilute the water or use a chemical to help filter out the total dissolved solids. "Jack's Magic has a product called The Magenta Stuff, which is what I use, and that's helping out a great deal. You can use that accompanied by a Jack's Purifiber, and that helps get some of the total dissolved solids out of there."
Because an ounce of prevention is worth probably much more than a pound of cure, it's really ideal to keep the water balanced in the first place. To do that in a salt pool, Temple says it's important to regularly clean and recalibrate the salt chlorine generator cells. "Salt chlorine generators cost around $1,500, and the cell in them tests the water to see how much new chlorine needs to be made. Well, I have an electronic tester that cost me around $2,200, and after every three times of checking water, I have to recalibrate it so I get an accurate reading. If the machine that's in the pool on the salt cell only cost a couple hundred bucks, I'm sure it's not getting accurate readings after a while. It needs to be recalibrated. The industry has to show maintenance people and homeowners how to clean the cell and to make sure it's actually functioning properly. The water also needs to be tested regularly with a test kit. Salt cells are not maintenance free. They still require somebody to get out there and test the pool and maintain it."
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Sequestering agents
These products, which can also be used to control scale buildup, are used mostly for prevention. They won’t remove old, existing stains (that’s a job for a dedicated stain remover), but they will work on potential stains and keep them from becoming visible.
We Recommend:
The Purple Stuff™, High Quality Jack's Magic Salt Solution
Jack's Magic Purple Stuff™ is the stain preventative of choice, and a must product for salt (chlorine) generator pools. Unlike traditional sequestering agents, The Purple Stuff™ works extremely well in high salt and high TDS pools. The Purple Stuff keeps silica in solution while greatly reducing the incidence of cell fouling (scaling) in salt (chlorine) generators. If you have a saltwater chlorine generator - Jacks Purple Stuff™ is for you!
* Directions
* » Add Monthly To Help Prevent Staining - 1 quart monthly, for every 10,000 gallons
* » Follow manufacturer directions specifically
* » Read the Material Safety Data Sheet
* Benefits
• Extends The Life Of Chlorine Generator Salt Cells
• Controls minerals, but keeps your salt levels active
Source water can sometimes be rife with metals, so the use of a preventive sequestering agent is critical.
Metals often are a problem even if they’re not in the source water. For example, iron can find its way into a pool if there is a notable amount of construction in the area or if old pipes are being dug up for renovation. A sequestering agent will keep the staining at bay, which is important because iron can wreak havoc on a pool’s surface when certain chemicals are added to the water.
“If you get iron in your water and then shock it, it will turn the steps yellow-brown,” Eastergard says. “Then the customer thinks they’re dirty and you’re not cleaning the pool. This stuff just plates onto the shell material, and it can plate onto the plastic fittings.”
* » Add Monthly To Help Prevent Staining - 1 quart monthly, for every 10,000 gallons
* » Follow manufacturer directions specifically
* » Read the Material Safety Data Sheet
* Benefits
• Extends The Life Of Chlorine Generator Salt Cells
• Controls minerals, but keeps your salt levels active
Source water can sometimes be rife with metals, so the use of a preventive sequestering agent is critical.
Metals often are a problem even if they’re not in the source water. For example, iron can find its way into a pool if there is a notable amount of construction in the area or if old pipes are being dug up for renovation. A sequestering agent will keep the staining at bay, which is important because iron can wreak havoc on a pool’s surface when certain chemicals are added to the water.
“If you get iron in your water and then shock it, it will turn the steps yellow-brown,” Eastergard says. “Then the customer thinks they’re dirty and you’re not cleaning the pool. This stuff just plates onto the shell material, and it can plate onto the plastic fittings.”
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
It's an exciting family moment when a decision is taken to have a swimming pool added to your backyard. To imagine your own Tampa Bay Swimming Pool where you can swim and hang out during the hot summer days, is surely a most pleasant thought! The first step is to find a good and reliable Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder for your backyard pool. Once that is done, you would have to choose the pool design and there are so many incredible swimming pool design options. They range from a Roman pool with columns and fountains, to a tropical one with a waterfall and lush greenery, to the Tampa Bay Swimming Pools which are exclusively for water sports and exercise.
It has never been easier to have your own Tampa Bay Swimming Pool, as all you need to do is hire your own Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder. There are several builders available, besides a diverse array of design options. Tri-County Pools will help you with all the different aspects of choosing a design and location down to managing the entire complex construction of your new swimming pool. Tri-County Pools has an array of gorgeous swimming pools and construction of these Tampa Bay Pools has evolved into an amazingly creative occupation. Tri-County Pools will consult you on all your preferences, take into account your lifestyle and keep in mind the overall ambience and structure of your home, when suggesting design choices for your Tampa Bay Swimming Pool.
Building a swimming pool is an expensive and laborious exercise, involving many factors. They can range from searching the Internet for designs, to choosing a Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder and then the entire process of construction of the swimming pool itself. These involve the following:
o Choice of Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder
o Selection of Tampa Bay Area Pool design, based on your specific needs
o Digging out pool area, according to the dimensions of the pool design
o Forming the pool walls with a steel grid frame
o Covering the steel grid framework, so that there is a suitably tough façade for the interior structure of the pool
o Constructing the pool coping and then the decking, which has to be synchronized perfectly with the coping
o The finale consists of the finishing touches of the Tampa Bay Area Pool, ensuring that all the little details are all in perfect order.
Now, you have your Tampa Bay Area Pool right there in your backyard, a beautiful bright spot where you, your family and friends can spend some enjoyable times together.
It has never been easier to have your own Tampa Bay Swimming Pool, as all you need to do is hire your own Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder. There are several builders available, besides a diverse array of design options. Tri-County Pools will help you with all the different aspects of choosing a design and location down to managing the entire complex construction of your new swimming pool. Tri-County Pools has an array of gorgeous swimming pools and construction of these Tampa Bay Pools has evolved into an amazingly creative occupation. Tri-County Pools will consult you on all your preferences, take into account your lifestyle and keep in mind the overall ambience and structure of your home, when suggesting design choices for your Tampa Bay Swimming Pool.
Building a swimming pool is an expensive and laborious exercise, involving many factors. They can range from searching the Internet for designs, to choosing a Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder and then the entire process of construction of the swimming pool itself. These involve the following:
o Choice of Tampa Bay Area Pool Builder
o Selection of Tampa Bay Area Pool design, based on your specific needs
o Digging out pool area, according to the dimensions of the pool design
o Forming the pool walls with a steel grid frame
o Covering the steel grid framework, so that there is a suitably tough façade for the interior structure of the pool
o Constructing the pool coping and then the decking, which has to be synchronized perfectly with the coping
o The finale consists of the finishing touches of the Tampa Bay Area Pool, ensuring that all the little details are all in perfect order.
Now, you have your Tampa Bay Area Pool right there in your backyard, a beautiful bright spot where you, your family and friends can spend some enjoyable times together.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Tampa Bay Area pool builder answers FAQ about AquaPure
AQUA PURE FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Q. How do I add salt to the pool?
A. Turn pump on to circulate pool water. Turn the AquaPure off by setting CHLORINE PRODUCTION to 00%. Determine amount of salt to be added from the salt chart. Broadcast the salt around the outer perimeter of the pool for quick and even distribution. To avoid clogging the filter or damaging power supply and pump, do not add salt through the skimmer or surge tank. Brush the pool bottom and allow water to circulate for 24 hours to dissolve completely and mix evenly with the pool water. 24 hours after adding salt, turn on the AquaPure, reset it to the previous production level.
Q. What type of salt do I need to use?
A. The preferred salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality salt. Do not use salt with yellow prussiate of soda or any anti-caking agent with the Chlorinator. Water conditioning salt pellets are compressed forms of evaporated salt and may be used but will take longer to dissolve. Rock salt is the least desirable because of insoluble impurities (dirt mixed with rock salt).
Q. What percentage of production should I set my unit at?
A. Every pool requires a different amount of chlorine depending on the size, climate, use, bather load, and water makeup, therefore it will vary with ever pool during each season. At startup of the pool set the production level at 50% and check the chlorine level 24 hours later. When the level is correct it should read between 1 and 3 ppm. If the level is low increase it using the More Chlorine button, and if it is high decrease it using the Less Chlorine button. Adjust in 10% increments then in smaller increments as the correct level is approached.
Q. How do I get my unit to quit flashing "bo" and some other number?
A. The "bo" that is flashing stands for boost, meaning the unit is in the boost mode. It will remain in this mode for the next 24 hours that the unit is energized. To manually override the boost mode, press the temperature button and hold it for ten seconds. The unit will "beep" when you first press the temperature button and then after ten seconds it will "beep" again. The unit should quit flashing and return to normal operation.
Q. How do I determine if my cell needs to be cleaned? How do I clean my cell?
A. If the electrolytic cell has a tendency to scale, it is recommended that every two months the cell be removed and inspected for scale formation and/or debris. Turn off the pool pump, remove the DC cord from the cell, unscrew the cell unions and remove it from the plumbing. Some filters allow debris to pass through to the cell which could lodge between the plates in the cell. A small amount of scale formation is normal. If by looking through the cell it is observed that there is excessive scale formation between the plates or debris is present, the cell must be cleaned as follows:
Use a high pressure jet of water from a garden hose. If the cell cannot be reasonably cleaned in this manner, acid cleaning is necessary. To acid clean the cell, mix one quart of muriatic acid with one gallon of tap water in a plastic bucket. Always add acid to the water, never add water to the acid. Always wear eye protection and use rubber gloves. Always work in a well ventilated area. Immerse the cell in the solution. A foaming action will begin, which is caused by scale (calcium carbonate) being dissolved from the plates. If rigorous foaming action does not begin, the cell does not need to be cleaned (STOP THE CLEANING PROCESS- go to rinse the cell). Otherwise allow the cell to remain in the solution until the foaming has stopped. However, do not leave in acid for more than 1/2 hour.
*(Excessive Acid Washing will damage Electrolytic Cell). Rinse the cell thoroughly with clean tap water and inspect. If deposits are still visible, immerse the cell again in the solution for further cleaning. Additional acid may need to be added to the solution. Rinse the cell again with clean tap water and inspect. If clean, replace the cell and resume normal operation.
Q. How do I get the alarm beeper to turn off?
A. Press the salinity button and hold it for 5 seconds. The unit will beep when it is pressed and then again after 5 seconds, this will silence the alarm for 24 hours or until the unit is turned off and on again. The unit will however alarm again if a different service condition occurs.
Q. How do we protect stone products when using a salt water chlorinator?
A. Choose the proper stone, seal the stone, reseal the stone on a regular basis.
Following these handy tips will help you get the most out of your AquaPure unit.
DO List
Increase Chlorine Production before party time and return to normal afterwards.
Increase Chlorine Production when temperature goes up.
Increase Chlorine Production when number of guests goes up.
Use Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) to Stabilize Chlorine in Pool.
Mount Power Supply in shade or out of the direct sunlight whenever possible.
Decrease when temperature goes down. Fall/winter etc.
Take Pool water sample to Pool Professional once per month.
DON'T List
Do not get fertilizer in your pool. Fertilizers contain nitrates which cause a high chlorine demand on pool water.
Never use dry acid to adjust pH in arid geographic areas with excessive evaporation and minimal dilution of pool water with fresh water. A build up of by products can damage the electrolytic cell.
Do not add any pool water balancing chemicals unless the Chlorinator is turned off.
Do not let Chlorine Stabilizer drop below 50 PPM.
www.tricountypools.com
Q. How do I add salt to the pool?
A. Turn pump on to circulate pool water. Turn the AquaPure off by setting CHLORINE PRODUCTION to 00%. Determine amount of salt to be added from the salt chart. Broadcast the salt around the outer perimeter of the pool for quick and even distribution. To avoid clogging the filter or damaging power supply and pump, do not add salt through the skimmer or surge tank. Brush the pool bottom and allow water to circulate for 24 hours to dissolve completely and mix evenly with the pool water. 24 hours after adding salt, turn on the AquaPure, reset it to the previous production level.
Q. What type of salt do I need to use?
A. The preferred salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality salt. Do not use salt with yellow prussiate of soda or any anti-caking agent with the Chlorinator. Water conditioning salt pellets are compressed forms of evaporated salt and may be used but will take longer to dissolve. Rock salt is the least desirable because of insoluble impurities (dirt mixed with rock salt).
Q. What percentage of production should I set my unit at?
A. Every pool requires a different amount of chlorine depending on the size, climate, use, bather load, and water makeup, therefore it will vary with ever pool during each season. At startup of the pool set the production level at 50% and check the chlorine level 24 hours later. When the level is correct it should read between 1 and 3 ppm. If the level is low increase it using the More Chlorine button, and if it is high decrease it using the Less Chlorine button. Adjust in 10% increments then in smaller increments as the correct level is approached.
Q. How do I get my unit to quit flashing "bo" and some other number?
A. The "bo" that is flashing stands for boost, meaning the unit is in the boost mode. It will remain in this mode for the next 24 hours that the unit is energized. To manually override the boost mode, press the temperature button and hold it for ten seconds. The unit will "beep" when you first press the temperature button and then after ten seconds it will "beep" again. The unit should quit flashing and return to normal operation.
Q. How do I determine if my cell needs to be cleaned? How do I clean my cell?
A. If the electrolytic cell has a tendency to scale, it is recommended that every two months the cell be removed and inspected for scale formation and/or debris. Turn off the pool pump, remove the DC cord from the cell, unscrew the cell unions and remove it from the plumbing. Some filters allow debris to pass through to the cell which could lodge between the plates in the cell. A small amount of scale formation is normal. If by looking through the cell it is observed that there is excessive scale formation between the plates or debris is present, the cell must be cleaned as follows:
Use a high pressure jet of water from a garden hose. If the cell cannot be reasonably cleaned in this manner, acid cleaning is necessary. To acid clean the cell, mix one quart of muriatic acid with one gallon of tap water in a plastic bucket. Always add acid to the water, never add water to the acid. Always wear eye protection and use rubber gloves. Always work in a well ventilated area. Immerse the cell in the solution. A foaming action will begin, which is caused by scale (calcium carbonate) being dissolved from the plates. If rigorous foaming action does not begin, the cell does not need to be cleaned (STOP THE CLEANING PROCESS- go to rinse the cell). Otherwise allow the cell to remain in the solution until the foaming has stopped. However, do not leave in acid for more than 1/2 hour.
*(Excessive Acid Washing will damage Electrolytic Cell). Rinse the cell thoroughly with clean tap water and inspect. If deposits are still visible, immerse the cell again in the solution for further cleaning. Additional acid may need to be added to the solution. Rinse the cell again with clean tap water and inspect. If clean, replace the cell and resume normal operation.
Q. How do I get the alarm beeper to turn off?
A. Press the salinity button and hold it for 5 seconds. The unit will beep when it is pressed and then again after 5 seconds, this will silence the alarm for 24 hours or until the unit is turned off and on again. The unit will however alarm again if a different service condition occurs.
Q. How do we protect stone products when using a salt water chlorinator?
A. Choose the proper stone, seal the stone, reseal the stone on a regular basis.
Following these handy tips will help you get the most out of your AquaPure unit.
DO List
Increase Chlorine Production before party time and return to normal afterwards.
Increase Chlorine Production when temperature goes up.
Increase Chlorine Production when number of guests goes up.
Use Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) to Stabilize Chlorine in Pool.
Mount Power Supply in shade or out of the direct sunlight whenever possible.
Decrease when temperature goes down. Fall/winter etc.
Take Pool water sample to Pool Professional once per month.
DON'T List
Do not get fertilizer in your pool. Fertilizers contain nitrates which cause a high chlorine demand on pool water.
Never use dry acid to adjust pH in arid geographic areas with excessive evaporation and minimal dilution of pool water with fresh water. A build up of by products can damage the electrolytic cell.
Do not add any pool water balancing chemicals unless the Chlorinator is turned off.
Do not let Chlorine Stabilizer drop below 50 PPM.
www.tricountypools.com
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